I spent the last week of September in Christchurch, and the weather gave me almost everything New Zealand spring can offer. We had temperatures close to zero and even a little flurry of snow, as well as beautiful sunny days around 20°C when shorts and T-shirts were perfectly comfortable.
That's spring for you!
I lived in Christchurch with my family for about six and a half years, from mid-2008 until early 2015. Returning for a longer visit gave me the chance to revisit some old favourites, discover new experiences and see how much the city has changed.
From walking in the Port Hills to cycling beside the Avon River, soaking in seaside hot pools and enjoying the local food scene, there was plenty to keep us busy. Here are a few experiences I'd recommend if you're planning a visit of your own.
Walking and cycling around Christchurch
One of the things I appreciate about Christchurch is how easy it is to get outdoors. There are lovely walking routes, an extensive network of cycling paths and plenty of green spaces to explore.
Walk to Barnett Park Cave
I'd seen photos of Barnett Park Cave on social media and was curious to see it for myself. I'm not usually one to visit somewhere just because it looks good in a photo, but this walk appealed to me.
The track climbs uphill to the cave, where you're rewarded with lovely views. You'll need a reasonable level of fitness, and the ground can be slippery when wet, so wear sensible shoes.
We chose the more challenging circuit, walking anti-clockwise so that the uneven section was uphill rather than having to tackle it on the way down. If you'd prefer a simpler option, you can take the more even route up and return the same way.
It's a lovely way to spend some time in the Port Hills if you're after a walk with a little effort and a good view.
Explore Christchurch by bike
Christchurch is a very bike-friendly city, and hiring a bike is a great way to explore.
One day, we cycled along the Avon River corridor through the Red Zone, where former residential areas are being transformed into green spaces and recreational areas. The shared path was a highlight, and I loved seeing how the landscape is changing. We cycled about 20 kilometres out and back, and I'd happily repeat the ride on a future visit.
Another day, we cycled from northern Christchurch towards Kaiapoi along the cycleway beside the expressway. We stopped for lunch at Paris for the Weekend, a lovely spot in an old building beside the river, before cycling back. We covered around 34 kilometres in total on a beautiful day with clear blue skies and hardly any wind.
If you don't have your own bike, Chill Explore is a great place to enquire about bike hire and guided tours. On a fine day, hiring a bike and exploring at your own pace is a wonderful way to experience Christchurch.
Enjoy the Botanic Gardens and the Avon River
The Christchurch Botanic Gardens are a pleasure to visit, especially in spring, when flowers appear throughout the gardens and deciduous trees begin to burst into fresh green leaf.
Near the Antigua Boat Sheds, I spotted visitors setting off on punting trips along the Avon River. If you're looking for a classic Christchurch activity, I'd certainly recommend it.
And if you enjoy parkrun when travelling, Riverlution parkrun beside the Avon River is another way to get outdoors and meet locals. The surrounding network of walking and cycling paths makes this a particularly pleasant part of the city to explore.
Head for the coast: Sumner, Evans Pass and New Brighton
Christchurch has more to offer than its city centre and gardens. I also enjoyed revisiting the coastal suburbs and seeing some of the changes taking place.
After our walk at Barnett Park Cave, we drove to Sumner for coffee before continuing up to Evans Pass. The views across Lyttelton Harbour towards Diamond Harbour were beautiful, with snow on the hills opposite. It was a reminder of just how cold the weather had been the previous day.
We then continued to New Brighton, where there's been plenty of development, including new housing and improvements around the shopping and pedestrian areas. It's an area worth keeping an eye on as it continues to evolve.
Soak in the seaside hot pools
One of my favourite experiences on this visit was He Puna Taimoana, the hot pools at New Brighton.
We booked a two-hour evening session and enjoyed soaking in the warm water while looking out towards the ocean and New Brighton Pier. It's a lovely way to spend an evening, especially when the weather is chilly.
This isn't a luxury spa experience like some of the places you'll find in Rotorua. It's simpler, with a local seaside feel, and that's part of its appeal.
We did have a small hiccup during our visit. A power issue affected the sauna, steam room and pool heating systems, although the pools remained warm. We received a refund, which was appreciated.
My tip: Book ahead and allow yourself time to enjoy the full session. It's a popular experience, and you don't want to miss out if you've planned your day around it.
Where to eat and drink in Christchurch
We certainly didn't struggle to find places to eat. In fact, we managed to visit Riverside Market twice in the space of a couple of evenings, despite talking about all the other places we wanted to try!
Riverside Market: plenty of choice
Riverside Market is ideal when everyone wants something different. Wander around the food outlets, choose what appeals to you and find somewhere to sit together.
We picked different dishes and headed upstairs to the mezzanine, where there was live music during our first visit. It's a great option when you're travelling with family or friends who don't necessarily agree on what to eat.
We enjoyed it enough to return a second time.
Posh Porridge and the Christchurch Farmers Market
My husband Tim had visited Posh Porridge on previous work trips and had told me how good it was. Naturally, that left me with a little food envy, so we finally made a visit together. It lived up to expectations, and we enjoyed our breakfast at a little table outside.
There are two ways to try Posh Porridge: its small kitchen in Montreal Street, which has limited opening hours, and its stall at the Christchurch Farmers Market on Saturday mornings. The menus may differ, so check the options if you're keen to try something specific.
The farmers market at Riccarton House was one of our favourite Saturday morning activities when we lived in Christchurch, so it was lovely to return. There's plenty of fresh produce, food and treats to buy, whether you want brunch, an early lunch or something to take back to your accommodation.
It's particularly useful if you're staying for a few days in a campervan or somewhere with cooking facilities. Parking can mean leaving your car a little way away and walking, but you can also get there by public transport, taxi or bike.
If you enjoy native forest, Riccarton Bush is worth visiting too. It's a separate experience that you can enjoy on other days of the week, not just when the market is on.
Discover local beer at Craft Embassy
After dinner at Riverside Market, we headed to Craft Embassy for a drink.
It's situated upstairs at The Terrace with a nice outlook over The Avon River. Take the lift up from Oxford Lane and you'll find a great place to sample New Zealand craft beers.
Tim ordered a pint of beer, while I opted for a tasting flight so I could try four different brews. I really enjoyed it, and it's a good option if you'd like to explore some of New Zealand's local beer scene.
We also enjoyed lunch at Cassels, the brewery at The Tannery, a beautifully restored former industrial complex with boutique shops. And if you're after a coffee break, I can recommend Quad Eatery at the Arts Centre for a long black and a cheese scone.
A final thought about Christchurch
I may have lived in Christchurch for six and a half years, but this visit reminded me that there's always something new to discover. The city is easy to explore, particularly if you enjoy walking and cycling, and there are plenty of ways to combine outdoor activities with good food and a little relaxation.
Just don't assume that spring will always be warm. We experienced everything from sunshine to drizzle, cold temperatures and a flurry of snow. Pack for changing conditions, keep a little flexibility in your plans, and enjoy whatever the weather brings.
If you're planning a wider New Zealand trip and would like help deciding how Christchurch fits into your journey, get in touch with Harbour City Travel. I'd be happy to help you plan a trip that suits you.
Photo credit: Maria Whitehead, Harbour City Travel
