I used to live in Christchurch for nearly seven years, so coming back always brings back memories. I've returned plenty of times since moving to Wellington in 2015, but on this visit I had a whole day to head out towards the mountains and explore places I hadn't been to since I lived there.
I'd picked up a rental car the evening before, which meant I could set off on Friday and make the most of the day. The weather was sunny, the Southern Alps were showing off their snow-capped peaks, and I was genuinely excited to be heading back into the Canterbury countryside.
I had two main stops planned: a jet boat experience on the Waimakariri River and a return visit to the extraordinary limestone landscape at Castle Hill. It turned out to be a day full of history, beautiful scenery, a little adventure and a reminder of how much there is to discover just beyond Christchurch.
Discovering New Zealand's jet boat history
My first stop was Alpine Jet Thrills, based in the countryside near Springfield. Before getting out on the river, I had the chance to visit the small, privately owned jet boat museum.
I didn't known much about the history of jet boating, so I found this part fascinating. The museum tells the story of the boats and the people who took them into some pretty remarkable places. One of the stories that caught my attention involved an expedition with Sir Edmund Hillary, using jet boats to reach remote communities along rivers that would otherwise have been difficult to navigate.
It's a good reminder that the jet boat is more than a fun way to spend an afternoon. It has a special place in New Zealand's history.
Bill Hamilton and the idea that changed river travel
A central figure in that story is Sir William Hamilton, usually known as Bill Hamilton. He grew up on a high-country sheep farm in South Canterbury and later farmed at Irishman Creek in the Mackenzie Country.
Hamilton wanted to build a boat that could travel upstream in the shallow, fast-flowing, braided rivers of the South Island. Conventional propeller-driven boats weren't suited to these conditions.
He didn't invent the water-jet principle itself. His achievement was developing a jet unit that could propel a boat efficiently at high speed while allowing it to travel through remarkably shallow water. His early testing took place on the dam behind his homestead and on rivers in the Mackenzie Country. The design went on to become a successful New Zealand innovation, known around the world.
Before my ride, I also took a short walk through the bush and enjoyed the lovely viewpoint overlooking the Waimakariri River. It was a beautiful introduction to the landscape I was about to experience from the water.
Out on the turquoise Waimakariri River
Then it was time to climb aboard.
I shared the jet boat trip with a father and his teenage son who were visiting from Australia. Our driver, Andy, took us upriver, stopping along the way to point out interesting features and tell us more about the river and the surrounding landscape.
The water was an absolutely beautiful turquoise colour. It's water straight from the mountains, and although the colour looks inviting, don't be fooled into thinking it will be warm!
We spent around 45 minutes travelling upriver, with stops to take in the scenery and hear some of the stories behind it. The return journey was much quicker, with the fun Hamilton Spins adding a little excitement along the way.
Many visitors associate jet boating with Queenstown, where it's often presented as a high-speed thrill ride. This experience offered something a little different. Yes, there was speed and excitement, but there was also time to appreciate the river, the landscape and the history behind the boats.
That's what I particularly enjoyed about it. You don't need to be someone who is chasing adrenaline to appreciate this experience. If you're interested in New Zealand's pioneering spirit, its rivers and its scenery, there's plenty here for you too.
A little tip: dress for the river, not just the sunshine
Even when the sun is shining, it can get cold out on the water. The river is fed by the mountains, and the wind makes a difference, particularly in spring.
I got a little wet during the spins, but it wasn't dramatic and most of it dried quite quickly. I was still just a tiny bit damp from the last spin when I got back into the car.
I'd recommend taking a warm layer and a windproof jacket, ideally a waterproof one such as a Gore-Tex rain jacket. If you feel the cold around your neck and ears, bring a scarf as well. It's also sensible to keep a change of clothes in the car, just in case.
You aren't necessarily going to get soaked. You can ask your driver for a more adventurous experience if that's what you want. But it's much nicer to have an extra layer available than to spend the rest of the day feeling cold.
Walker's Hut: a surprising little stop by the river
Another highlight was a stop at Walker's Hut, which was built in 1955.
From the outside, the hut looks very basic. Step inside, however, and you'll find a much more welcoming space than you might expect. The timber work and the improvements made over the years have given it real character. It was easy to imagine sitting there for a while, looking out over the Waimakariri River Canyon.
The hut is maintained by volunteers from the Canterbury Branch of Jet Boating New Zealand, and it's lovely to see the care that has gone into looking after it.
The walk to the hut was straightforward, although sensible footwear is a good idea. The teenager managed it barefoot, but I wouldn't necessarily recommend following his example!
This stop added another dimension to the trip. It wasn't just about the boat ride. It was about getting a closer look at the landscape, hearing the stories and discovering a small piece of local history.
The experience I had was a variation of the trip Alpine Jet Thrills recommends I arrange for my self-drive clients. The version I recommend combines the river journey and scenic stops with a simple morning tea and a sweet treat at the hut. It's a lovely way to break up the adventure and enjoy the surroundings.
Castle Hill, or Kura Tāwhiti
After the jet boat experience, I continued towards Castle Hill, also known by its Māori name, Kura Tāwhiti.
I'd visited before, back when I lived in Christchurch, but it had been many years. I was surprised by how much the visitor facilities had changed. There's now a proper car park with toilets and a much-improved walking track leading towards the limestone formations.
The landscape is extraordinary. Enormous limestone boulders rise out of the open ground, creating shapes that look almost otherworldly. Walking among them, you might feel as though you've stepped onto the set of The Lord of the Rings. It's easy to see why this landscape reminds people of Middle-earth.
Kura Tāwhiti is also a place of deep cultural significance to Ngāi Tahu, so it's worth taking the time to appreciate more than just the scenery. Please respect the landscape, stay on the designated track and follow the visitor guidance.
Is Castle Hill crowded?
The car park was fairly full when I arrived. It was October, and I hadn't really expected so many people, but then I remembered it was during the New Zealand school holidays.
The beginning of the walk was busy, with plenty of people heading towards the rocks. Once I reached the area where the route gives you the choice to continue around the loop, people began to spread out.
There were families exploring, people taking photographs, climbers and children doing cartwheels. It was lovely to see people enjoying the outdoors. Although it certainly wasn't an undiscovered secret, there was enough space for everyone to find their own little corner.
I spent just under two kilometres walking the main route, taking around half an hour with a few quick photo stops. You could easily spend a couple of hours here if you wanted to explore more thoroughly.
I was travelling on my own and had another stop in mind, so I didn't linger. But I left wishing I'd had more time, and perhaps someone to share a picnic with.
My tip: bring something for lunch and allow time to enjoy a proper break. Sheffield Pies is a good place to look for a classic New Zealand pie if you'd like to pick something up along the way. You could enjoy your picnic at the designated picnic area by the car park, before or after exploring the formations.
It's a simple way to slow down and enjoy the setting. Just check opening hours before you travel, and follow local visitor guidance around the site.
Make a day of it from Christchurch
If you're staying in Christchurch and have a rental car, this makes a lovely day out. You can combine the jet boat experience with Castle Hill and take your time along the way.
Springfield is a fun little stop, too, thanks to its giant pink doughnut, which makes for a cheerful photo opportunity. And if you enjoy discovering the smaller stops along a road trip, there are plenty of opportunities to pause for a coffee, take in the views or simply enjoy being out in the countryside.
There are several one-lane bridges on the roads in this area. They're common in New Zealand, but if you're visiting from overseas, make sure you watch the signs and follow the give-way rules. And, as always on a mountain route, check road and weather conditions before you travel.
The beauty of a self-drive day is that you can choose how much time to spend at each stop. The jet boat experience has a set arrangement, but you can allow more time at Castle Hill, stop for a coffee or simply enjoy the views along the way.
Another way to experience the area
If you'd prefer not to drive, there are organised tours from Christchurch that combine jet boating on the Waimakariri River with some of the spectacular scenery around Castle Hill and Arthur's Pass. Some also include a return journey on the TranzAlpine train.
It's a different way to experience this part of Canterbury, with more variety in the day rather than as much time on the river. The right option really depends on what you'd like to see and how it fits with the rest of your New Zealand trip.
A stop to consider on your South Island road trip
You could also include this part of Canterbury in a wider South Island road trip, particularly if you're heading towards Arthur's Pass and the West Coast.
How you fit it in depends on your route, how much time you have and whether you'd like to enjoy the jet boat experience, explore Castle Hill or do a little of both. It's worth thinking about these stops when planning your overall itinerary, rather than trying to squeeze everything into a day that's already too full.
This is one of the things I love about planning New Zealand holidays. There are so many possibilities, but the best route isn't always the one that includes the most places. Sometimes it's about allowing enough time to enjoy the places that interest you most.
A day I'd happily recommend
I really enjoyed my day out. It was wonderful to have the freedom of a rental car, see the snow-capped Southern Alps again and revisit a part of Canterbury I hadn't properly explored for years.
What I liked most was the mix of experiences. The jet boat gave me the excitement of being out on the river, but also its history and the stories behind it. Walker's Hut added a little local character, while Castle Hill reminded me how special this landscape is.
For me, that's what makes a good day trip. It's not about ticking off as many sights as possible. It's about finding the right combination of experiences and allowing yourself enough time to enjoy them.
There are so many ways to experience New Zealand, and what works beautifully for one traveller won't necessarily be right for another. When I'm planning a trip for my clients, I look at the bigger picture, the places they want to visit, the experiences that interest them and how everything fits together.
If you're dreaming of a trip to New Zealand and wondering how to fit experiences like this into your own journey, I'd love to help you put the pieces together.
Photo credit: Maria Whitehead, Harbour City Travel
