There are some experiences you book for clients…
…and then one day, you finally get to do them yourself.
This was one of those.
I’ve booked Cheeky Kiwi for clients on the South Island and consistently received great feedback, but I had never travelled with them myself. And I had also not been to the Bay of Islands in 18 years, so it felt well overdue to return.
So when the opportunity came up while I was in Auckland to join their Bay of Islands tour, it was an easy decision. It was the perfect chance to experience both the destination and the supplier firsthand.
An Early Start in Auckland
At 6:20am, I was standing outside SkyCity Hotel Auckland, watching the city slowly wake up and realising just how many tours depart from here each morning. Buses lined the street, guides greeting sleepy travellers, luggage being loaded.
It’s quite a scene, and actually very reassuring. Touring in New Zealand is well organised, and this is one of the main departure points.
Our group? Just five people.
A small 14-seater vehicle, plenty of legroom, and I say that as someone who is 182cm tall, and a guide named Alessandro. As it turns out, he not only knows Northland well, but also used to be a barista. That became important later.
Heading North – More Than Just a Drive
The journey north isn’t just about getting from A to B. It’s broken up really well.
We stopped in Kaiwaka for coffee at La Nonna Italian Bakery, and yes, Alessandro made sure it was good coffee. He’s very particular. His rule is to always order a black coffee, that’s how you know if it’s actually good.
One of the standout stops of the day was the Kauri Museum. I’ve recommended it for years, and now I understand why.
We arrived early and had the place almost to ourselves. A short guided introduction gave context, and then we were free to explore. It’s one of those places where you think you’ll spend 30 minutes… and suddenly an hour has passed.
Meeting Tāne Mahuta
Later, we stopped to visit Tāne Mahuta, the largest known kauri tree in New Zealand.
I hadn’t been here in 18 years, and it’s quite different now.
Due to Kauri dieback disease, there are strict protection measures in place. You walk on raised boardwalks, and you must disinfect your shoes both entering and leaving the area.
But despite all of that, or maybe because of it, the experience feels even more significant.
The tree itself is hard to describe. Massive, yes. Ancient. But also strangely emotional. It’s one of those places where people fall quiet without being asked to.
There are also volunteers on site now, answering questions and sharing stories, which adds another layer to the visit.
Hokianga & the Journey North
We continued via the Hokianga Harbour, stopping for lunch in Opononi. Seafood, sunshine, and people swimming in the sea. A very relaxed, local feel.
We also stopped at Pakia Hill Lookout, which offers beautiful views over the harbour.
This part of the journey is often overlooked, but it really shouldn’t be.
Waitangi – Where History Comes Alive
In the afternoon, we arrived at the Waitangi Treaty Grounds.
This was a highlight.
We started with a cultural performance, followed by a guided tour of the grounds. What stood out most was the quality of the guiding. Our guide had an incredible depth of knowledge, but more importantly, she adapted her storytelling to the group, asking where we were from, what we already knew, and tailoring the experience accordingly.
Even our driver Alessandro said that every time he’s done this tour, it has felt different depending on the group.
We were also given earpieces, which meant we could walk freely while still hearing everything. A small detail, but it makes a big difference.
Evening in Paihia
By 5pm, we had arrived in Paihia and checked into Kingsgate Hotel Autolodge Paihia.
The hotel itself is a bit dated, and this is where it’s good to know that you don’t have to stay here, more on that later.
I went for a walk along the waterfront, found a quieter beach away from the main road, which explains why some of the accommodations I book for clients work so well, and ended the day with dinner at Zane Grey's Restaurant and Bar, right out over the water.
A cold drink, calamari, boats in the harbour… a very good way to end a long day.
Day 2 – Out on the Water
The next morning started with coffee at Latte & Lab before heading out on a Bay of Islands cruise.
We picked up passengers in Russell, dropped some off at Otehei Bay, and along the way spotted flying fish and a New Zealand fur seal.
Luck wasn’t on our side when it came to dolphins and whales this time, but that’s nature.
And yes, we went through the Hole in the Rock.
A Short but Memorable Stop on Urupukapuka Island
We spent just over an hour on Urupukapuka Island, and it was one of those places that instantly makes you think, I need to come back.
Walking tracks, birdlife, little beaches, even a small art gallery. It’s beautiful, but an hour is not enough.
In autumn, the weather was perfect, warm but not overwhelming. In summer, I suspect it could feel very hot.
The Journey Back
The return journey included a few classic stops:
– Hundertwasser Public Toilets (yes, really)
– Free time at Whangārei Town Basin
– A cheese stop in Kaiwaka
And by around 5:50pm, we were back in Auckland.
Two full days. A lot packed in.
What I Learned (So You Don’t Have To)
1. Bring a windproof jacket
Even if the forecast looks good. The wind on the water can be cold, I learned this the hard way.
2. It’s a full itinerary
You cover a lot of ground. It’s well-paced, but you will feel it.
3. Small group touring works really well
More personal, more flexible, and a better overall experience.
The Most Important Tip
This is the big one.
If you only have two days, this tour is a fantastic option. I would absolutely recommend it over self-driving.
But if you have more time?
Don’t rush it.
I’ve designed many self-drive itineraries for clients in Northland, and this is where the region really comes into its own when you slow down.
A route I often recommend includes:
– An overnight near Hokianga Harbour with an evening visit to Tāne Mahuta
– A few nights in Paihia to explore the Bay of Islands properly
– A day trip to Cape Reinga
– And time further south around Whangārei
These trips are often around 4–5 nights, and they allow for a much more relaxed pace.
So while the 2-day tour works very well if you’re short on time, having your own car and a few extra days gives you the freedom to really enjoy this part of New Zealand. Also know that this 2-day tour with Cheeky Kiwi can easily be extended with extra nights in Paihia and you always have the flexibility to book the accommodation you prefer.
Final Thoughts
This was a really, really good trip.
It confirmed a lot of what I already believed, and added the kind of detail you only get from being there yourself.
And it also reminded me of something I often tell my clients:
Sometimes, it’s not about seeing more.
It’s about giving yourself the time to enjoy what you see.
